Shirt - Research.

The shirt has been an essential undergarment for men throughout history and has slowly developed over time whilst maintaining a couple of main aspects. The sleeves have always remained long and the shirt length no longer than hip length. Around the 18th Century gussetts were added to the shirt sleeves to allow extra movement, and the collar was shortened to touch the jaw line rather than the cheeks to allow a more free movement for the head. A high standing collar (much like my design) would usually have a cravat tied beneath it.

From The History Of Underclothes by C. Willett Cunnington, 1981.

Chemise - Research.

The chemise is an undergarment that is tiypically warn underneath all other garments, even under the corset, bodice or stays. The chemise was first about in the late 1400s in a style that was similar to the male shirt - with a collar, opening at the front tied with a drawstring. They later varied from having no sleeves to having long sleeves, and gussets were later added to allow more movement. The garment had no embellishments for the lower classes as it was a garment completly hidden from view, aside from the collar and sleeves if they were chosen to be shown. Only the upper classes used embroidery to represent their wealth.

From The History Of Underclothes by C. Willett Cunnington, 1981.

From The History Of Underclothes by C. Willett Cunnington, 1981

Waistcoat - Research.

The waistcoat at this time has a distinct military look to it - it appears to be tight fitting and formal. It is buttoned all the way up the centre front with a pocket on either side, and is tightened round the back using lacing. The waistcoat in the 18th Century was generally mid-thigh length but eventually shortened to the waist at the beginning of the 19th Century.

Augustus John The Third Of Briston by Thomas Gainsborugh, 1968.

George Lord Vernon by Thomas Gainsborough, 1967.

Breeches - Research

The breeches I am making are typical of the 18th Century - they are relativly close fitting with their length finishing at the knee. Alot more attention to detail was given to the breeches at this time as waistcoats and overcoats were shortened.
Please click the image below for a larger view:
1 - Arrow heads - decorative part of the front flap for the breeches. Button fastened closed. Front flap is used to hide fastenings underneath.
2 - Welt pocket on the waistband - used as a ticket pocket.
3 - Larger pocket - used as a cash pocket.
4 - Knee bands - once again arrow heads are used in this design. Button fastened closed.
5 - Inner fastening - used to keep the breeches buttoned up.

John Plampin by Thomas Gainsborough, 1952.

A Fanily Group In A Garden by Alan Evans, 1974.